Edwardian Top Hats

Works by Elgar, Grainger, and Strauss

If the BBC Proms are a National Treasure alongside Dame Judi Dench, imperial measurements and the cucumber sandwich, few composers are more closely associated with them – nor thought so terribly British – as Edward Elgar. Small wonder, then, that he apparently once said of his 1910 Violin Concerto, the centrepiece of last night's programme, 'It's good! awfully emotional! too emotional! but I love it.' His moustache is almost audible: the Edwardian era was, after all, one not only of top hats and stiff upper lips, but also of sentimentality, lurking beneath the stoicism as the Empire crumbled.

All five works on the programme date from what might be broadly described as this era, all composed within the two decades between 1894 and 1916. But, of course, it's a long way from Worcester to Munich (never mind Australia) and this was very much an evening in two halves: Elgar at his most 'awfully emotional', followed by the more self-conscious and eclectic soundworlds of Percy Grainger and the young Richard Strauss. Not that links didn't emerge; but rather than between Elgar and Grainger (who had settled in Britain in 1901 and was famously interested in its folk music), the more striking similarities were those between the Australian émigré and the man who, in 1894, was Germany's Next Top Composer.

The prom began with the first of two brief appearances by the BBC Singers , who opened each half with an unaccompanied work. The first – Elgar's part song 'There is sweet music' – showcased the outfit's fabulous diction and finely blended sound, but was an oddly low-energy piece with which to start. No such problem with their second outing, Grainger's 'Irish tune from County Derry': the group's enthusiasm was palpable. Unfortunately, though, the sheer volume of the tenors and basses at times endangered the delicate balance of Grainger's arrangement – and in a programme already conspicuous for its variety, the inclusion of choral forces for such fleeting works seemed ultimately unnecessary.

'Fleeting' is, of course, not a description easily levelled at the Elgar Violin Concerto. It's a work with which violinist Tasmin Little is famously associated: in a programme book interview she estimates having given a staggering 70 performances.

St James Style: Top Hats | Men's Style and Lifestyle Blog

At Ascot, there is probably a slight slant towards black top hats, but there are still plenty of grey ones to be seen. Grey hats may be slightly more casual, but I am not aware of any event (with the possible exception of a strangely formal funeral) at which it would be unacceptable to wear a grey top hat. Grey top hats are a must with a matching grey morning suit, but otherwise the choice is entirely yours. My own preference is for a black hat, partly because good ones have a particular beautiful shine that grey hats lack, and partly because a black hat can also be worn with evening tails. Not that it is easy to do so without looking like a broadway chorus-singer, but it's a nice option to have. These can be made from fur felt or wool, and could be hand-made and quite expensive, or available for as little as £30. The key thing is that the black or grey covering has a matt finish, and a slightly furry texture. This looks fine in grey, but is a bit cheap-looking in black, and lacks the shine that is the hallmark of the proper Edwardian topper. This is the next step up, and is what you will find on all decent quality new top hats sold by anyone from Moss Bros (for about £200) to Lock the Hatter (for closer to £400). In between, Ede and Ravenscroft, Hackett, Bates the Hatter and numerous other places also sell them. Most are hand-made and the visible difference between them is minimal. Melusine, when carefully brushed, has a shine that is close to that of silk, and this is as good as you are likely to be able to get from a new top hat. The top of the heap in top hat terms. Edwardian top hats were made of silk, and there are plenty scattered around second hand shops for a few hundred pounds or less. The issue is that larger hat sizes tend to be rarer, and therefore much more expensive. Some hatters, such as Lock, will do you a refurbished and refitted silk hat but, depending on your head size and the provenance of the hat, this is likely to set you back several thousand pounds. That said, a good silk hat does look fantastic, and is clearly a cut above even the best Melusine ones.

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